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Dandruff is flaking and scaling of the scalp, and its more inflammatory form is called seborrhoeic dermatitis. It affects a very large proportion of adults and is one of the most persistently misunderstood scalp conditions. The single most common mistake is treating it as dryness and applying oil, which feeds the very organism responsible and reliably makes it worse.
Dandruff is driven by a yeast called Malassezia, which lives normally on everyone’s skin and feeds on the oils produced by the scalp. In susceptible people it proliferates, breaks sebum down into irritant fatty acids, and triggers inflammation and accelerated skin cell turnover. The result is flaking, redness and itching. This is why dandruff is worse on oily scalps, not dry ones, and why applying oil overnight is counterproductive.
1. Malassezia overgrowth on an oily scalp
2. Applying hair oil and leaving it overnight, which is the commonest aggravating practice in India
3. Infrequent washing, allowing sebum and scale to accumulate
4. Stress, sleep deprivation and hot humid weather
5. Reduced immunity, diabetes, HIV and Parkinson’s disease, all associated with more severe seborrhoeic dermatitis
6. Harsh shampoos, hair dyes and styling products causing contact irritation
7. Vitamin D, zinc and B-complex deficiency
1. White or yellowish greasy flakes on the scalp, hair and shoulders
2. Itching, sometimes intense, with scratch marks
3. Redness of the scalp, and in seborrhoeic dermatitis also the eyebrows, sides of the nose, behind the ears and the chest
4. Increased hair fall, since inflammation disturbs the hair cycle and scratching causes mechanical breakage
5. Worsening in winter and during periods of stress
See a dermatologist if dandruff persists despite 4 to 6 weeks of medicated shampoo, if the scalp is red, sore or weeping, if there is significant hair fall, or if thick silvery plaques extend beyond the hairline, which may indicate scalp psoriasis rather than dandruff. Sudden severe seborrhoeic dermatitis in a young adult warrants evaluation for underlying immunosuppression.
1. Medicated antifungal shampoos: Ketoconazole, selenium sulphide, zinc pyrithione or ciclopirox. The key is technique: apply to the scalp rather than the hair, leave in contact for 5 to 10 minutes, then rinse. Most people rinse immediately, which is why it fails.
2. Rotation of active ingredients: Malassezia adapts to a single agent, so alternating between two different actives maintains effectiveness.
3. Salicylic acid or coal tar preparations: To loosen thick adherent scale before antifungal treatment.
4. Topical anti-inflammatory therapy: Short courses of steroid or calcineurin inhibitor lotion for marked redness and itching.
5. Oral antifungals: For severe or resistant seborrhoeic dermatitis, in short supervised courses.
6. Stop oiling the scalp: Or restrict oil to the hair lengths only, applied shortly before washing rather than overnight.
7. Correct deficiencies and address hair fall: Vitamin D, zinc and B12 correction, and treatment of associated hair fall once the scalp inflammation is controlled.
Chronic scalp inflammation is not cosmetically trivial. Sustained inflammation shortens the hair growth phase and pushes follicles into shedding, so persistent dandruff genuinely worsens hair fall and can unmask or accelerate pattern baldness. Constant scratching causes excoriation and secondary bacterial infection, and thick adherent scale can lead to localised scarring in severe cases. Because dandruff is a chronic relapsing condition, the realistic goal is long-term control with maintenance washing, and that is far easier to establish before the scalp is severely inflamed.

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