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Pigmentation disorders are among the most common dermatology complaints on Indian skin, and among the most frequently mistreated. Indian skin has abundant, highly reactive melanocytes, which means it tans readily, darkens after any inflammation, and pigments in response to aggressive treatment. Every effective pigmentation plan therefore has two halves: reducing existing pigment, and preventing the skin from making more. Skipping the second half is why most treatment fails.
1. Melasma: Symmetrical brown-grey patches on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jaw. Hormonally driven, aggravated by sun and heat, and notoriously recurrent. Common in pregnancy and with oral contraceptives.
2. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: Dark marks left behind by acne, eczema, injury or an aggressive cosmetic procedure. The commonest form on Indian skin.
3. Periorbital melanosis (dark circles): Multifactorial, involving genetic pigmentation, thin skin showing underlying vessels, tear trough hollowing and rubbing.
4. Sun-induced pigmentation: Freckles, solar lentigines and general photo-damage.
5. Lichen planus pigmentosus and ashy dermatosis: Slate-grey pigmentation needing specific medical treatment.
6. Acanthosis nigricans: Velvety dark thickening of the neck, armpits and groin, which is an important marker of insulin resistance, obesity and diabetes rather than a cosmetic problem.
1. Ultraviolet radiation and, importantly, visible light and heat, which drive melasma even indoors and through windows
2. Hormonal factors: pregnancy, oral contraceptives and thyroid disease
3. Inflammation from acne, eczema, allergic reactions and insect bites
4. Steroid creams and unregulated fairness creams, which cause an initial lightening followed by rebound pigmentation, thinned skin and visible vessels
5. Genetics and skin type
6. Insulin resistance, in the case of acanthosis nigricans
7. Friction from scrubbing, waxing, threading and harsh exfoliation
See a dermatologist before starting any lightening product. Over-the-counter fairness creams in India frequently contain potent steroids, hydroquinone at unregulated strengths or mercury, and steroid-damaged facial skin is now one of the commonest dermatology presentations in the country. Also seek assessment if pigmentation is spreading, if there are velvety dark patches on the neck or armpits, or if a pigmented lesion is changing in size, shape or colour.
1. Photoprotection, which is non-negotiable: Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or above with iron oxides for visible light protection, reapplied every 3 to 4 hours, plus hats and shade. Without this, every other treatment underperforms and pigmentation returns.
2. Topical depigmenting agents: Hydroquinone in supervised courses, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids.
3. Chemical peels: Glycolic, salicylic, mandelic and yellow peels, using conservative strengths appropriate for Indian skin.
4. Oral therapy: Oral tranexamic acid for resistant melasma, and antioxidants, under supervision.
5. Laser and light therapy: Q-switched laser toning and low-fluence protocols. These must be used conservatively, as aggressive settings on Indian skin can worsen pigmentation.
6. Glutathione therapy and HydraFacial: As adjuncts within a supervised plan.
7. Treat the underlying cause: Controlling acne, stopping steroid creams, managing insulin resistance and reviewing hormonal medication.
Untreated pigmentation deepens as melanin migrates from the epidermis into the dermis, and dermal pigment is dramatically harder to clear than superficial pigment. Melasma left to run for years becomes mixed epidermal-dermal and far more resistant. Meanwhile, self-medication with steroid-containing creams causes skin thinning, telangiectasia, steroid acne and severe rebound pigmentation that then needs months of repair before the original problem can even be addressed. Starting correct treatment early, with proper sun protection, is by far the shortest route.

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