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Acne vulgaris is a disorder of the pilosebaceous unit, involving excess oil production, blocked follicles, bacterial overgrowth and inflammation. It affects the overwhelming majority of teenagers and a substantial number of adults, particularly women in their twenties and thirties. It is a genuine medical condition with effective treatment, and the single most important thing to understand is that treating it early prevents the scars that are far harder to treat later.
1. Grade I (comedonal): Blackheads and whiteheads without inflammation.
2. Grade II (papulopustular): Red papules and pustules, the classic pimple.
3. Grade III (nodular): Deeper, painful nodules with significant inflammation.
4. Grade IV (nodulocystic): Large cysts, sinus tracts and extensive scarring. This grade needs systemic treatment and should never be managed with creams alone.
1. Hormonal: Androgens driving sebum production, which is why acne begins at puberty. In adult women, jawline and chin acne with irregular periods and excess hair strongly suggests polycystic ovary syndrome, which should be investigated rather than treated as simple acne.
2. Bacterial: Cutibacterium acnes proliferating in blocked follicles.
3. Genetics: A strong family influence on severity and scarring tendency.
4. Cosmetic: Comedogenic makeup, heavy hair oils causing forehead acne, and prolonged helmet or mask contact.
5. Medication: Anabolic steroids, corticosteroids, lithium and some anti-epileptics.
6. Diet: High glycaemic index foods and, in some individuals, skimmed milk and whey protein supplements.
7. Mechanical: Picking and squeezing, which is the leading avoidable cause of permanent scarring.
1. Blackheads and whiteheads on the forehead, nose and chin
2. Red, tender papules and pus-filled pustules
3. Deep painful nodules and cysts in severe disease
4. Oily skin and enlarged pores
5. Post-inflammatory dark marks, which are especially prominent and persistent on Indian skin
6. Depressed or raised scars in longstanding cases
See a dermatologist if over-the-counter products have not helped within 6 to 8 weeks, if you have painful nodules or cysts, if scarring or dark marks are appearing, or if acne is affecting your confidence. Women with acne accompanied by irregular periods, weight gain or excess facial hair should be evaluated for PCOS. Severe nodulocystic acne warrants prompt specialist treatment, because every week of delay adds scars.
1. Topical therapy: Retinoids (the backbone of treatment), benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid and topical antibiotics used in combination rather than alone.
2. Oral antibiotics: Doxycycline or azithromycin for moderate inflammatory acne, for a limited course alongside topicals.
3. Hormonal therapy: Combined oral contraceptives or spironolactone for adult female hormonal acne, particularly with PCOS.
4. Oral isotretinoin: Highly effective for severe nodulocystic or treatment-resistant acne, under strict supervision with monitoring and mandatory contraception in women.
5. Chemical peels: Salicylic and glycolic acid peels to clear comedones and fade post-inflammatory pigmentation.
6. HydraFacial and comedone extraction: Performed professionally rather than at home.
7. Scar treatment: Once active acne is controlled, fractional laser, microneedling and subcision address residual scarring. See acne scar treatment.
Active acne is temporary; acne scars are permanent. Every inflamed nodule left untreated for months is destroying dermal collagen, and the resulting depressed scar will need multiple laser and microneedling sessions to partially improve, at far greater cost and effort than treating the acne would have taken. On Indian skin, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation adds a second problem that outlasts the acne by many months. The cheapest and most effective acne scar treatment is treating the acne early.

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